LEARN SOME SPANISH!
Safety
So most people ask us if we are worried about safety in Central and South America, and the answer is yes, we were worried when we left the USA and we are worried every time we are going to a new country. Truth is, every city could be unsafe, it just depends on the precautions that one takes and how you live your life.
First recommendation, in every Latin American country, NEVER under any circumstances, travel by night and know at least where you are heading and how long it will take you to get there. Usually there is a lot of info online and ask around( more than once if you can), people will tell you how it is, remember that you can be mugged in any city, just have your eyes wide open, use your common sense and do not flash around your valuables. Bare in mind most of the countries you will be visiting are poorer countries anyhow, the people are so nice you will be surprised.
If you can, and if you will be driving, bring a GPS with you, it is always useful, but know that many maps are not routable, and most of the time, timing is not so accurate, so ask before you go anywhere. In some countries 300 km /200 miles can take you up to 8/9 hours. Think wise!
We have been on the road for over 10 months and never had a problem. Knock on wood.
LEARN SOME SPANISH!
Border Crossing
There is lots of info about border crossings everywhere, but as a rule of thumb we'll tell you...
Get there as early in the morning as you can, having extra time on your side will save you lots of trouble. Always.
You can do all the paperwork yourself, you don’t really need "helpers" they will take your money and try to take some advantage. If you don’t speak the language, you can still try, but if not you can fix a price before starting the whole thing.
Generally, the people you have to pay attention to have a name tag, a vest or are behind a counter.
Bring copies of all your documents but don’t worry to much, there will always be something missing and you will probably have to make more copies once you are there.
This is not a "scary" area as most people think it is just chaotic and there are people trying to take advantage of tourists, but you don’t have to be one of those.
LEARN SOME SPANISH!
Car insurance
You don’t really need to get insurance before you leave your country, you can, there is something called International Insurance but it is very expensive.
Some countries like Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama, El Salvador and Colombia have mandatory car insurance that you have to get at the border, other ones like Mexico, you can buy it online and both are fairly cheap. Others don’t have nor request it. Usually the countries that require a mandatory insurance, have it for sale at the border. We suggest that you buy this ( or any type of) insurance, you never know how the other driver or person will drive or cross and you will be covered. Dont even think about it!
Credit and Banking Cards
This is the best option by far, you can bring cash, but you cant bring enough cash for your entire trip, if your are thinking of doing that, THINK AGAIN!
Try to talk to your bank or find a Credit /Banking card that wont charge you a foreign fee when you get money off of an ATM, we are paying crazy amounts! Most of the time you'll pay $2/3 to get money but this is different of a foreign fee, a foreign fee is about 7% that your bank charges you for the amount you are extracting!! LOTS OF MONEY!
Do not bring travelers check, most of these countries don' t even know they exist!
How to cross the Darien gap?
Easy, cause there is mainly one way.
If you are driving, you must ship your car, if you are backpacking you can fly or sail.
To ship your vehicle there are two ways, ro-ro, means roll on roll of, aka without a container ( we don't know much about this one but I am sure it is similar procedures) or put your vehicle in a 20 ft or 40ft container. We put ours in a 20 ft container, you can do solo about U$1300 or you can try to find a partner and share it, still the cost is about U$1100.
You can ship it to Cartagena, Colombia or Guayaquil, Ecuador, the cost is about the same, Colombia is a bit cheaper since it is a lot more common.
We used a lady called Tea Kalmbach, she is reliable and she knows what she is doing. To be honest is the best of the worse. That's the real truth, but she is good and honest, she will tell you things as they are. Truth is, it is time consuming and lots of paperwork, but it is easy if you contact her, she will walk you thru the whole process. You need 2 days to ship and at least 2 days to get it back, No way to do it in less time, we tried!!
Her email is
Be careful with the companies that seem cheaper, make sure that what you are being charged includes unloading charges as well, we heard of several companies charging $700/$800 but then you need to pay another $500/$600 at port to unload your car. When we did it with her, we paid her $1275 and then just another $100 in paperwork and stamps in Cartagena.
What about you?
Well, you cant get on the boat with your car, so there are 2 options.
You can Fly from Panama ( I think Tea also helps people get good rates, ask her)
or...
You can have the experience of your lifetime and book yourself and your fellow traveler on a Sailboat to Cartagena.
The trip goes as follows...
You go from Panama City on a 4x4 to Carti, once you get there ( 3 hours) you get on the boat and start your amazing journey through the San Blas, or Kuna islands for 3/4 days. Then you sail for aprox 36 hours in open water and you get to Cartagena!! ( bring Dramamine or Stugeron) Pretty amazing and honestly the experience of your lifetime!! (check our pics)
We used a company called Sailing Koala www.sailingkoala.com
Fabian is a great captain, he knows a lot about sailing and has been doing this for over 12 years. Also he will wait for you at the shore in Carti, so you save some $$, the Kunas will charge you for everything they can!!
We had a great time, ate great food and were so lucky that we were only 5 passengers. Usually they are 8+ and also the crew. Make sure you know how many people will be traveling on the boat and how are the sleeping arrangements, Fabian gives everybody a room. He has a 42 ft Catamaran, with 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, even though they usually use one or two, basically to save water.
If you are a couple you most definitely will have your suite.
The food is good, not great, I should say it is not their forte but they try hard and you will be eating Lobster, Crab and Fish mostly every day. You just have to ask. Also if you can cook they will let you try cooking, just bare in mind it is not that easy to cook on a boat!
email: fabian@sailingkoala.com
This are some tips I copied from a reliable website.
Most of the boats right now are going to Cartagena. The prices are all per person and include all meals and non-alcoholic beverages and usually all immigration fees. With most boats we advise you take your alcohol and snacks with you when you leave Panama City.
Most of the boats are leaving from Carti in the San Blas islands and therefore involve an additional $40 in travel fees to reach Carti where the boat leaves from. This includes $25 for a jeep to Carti, around $5 for a launcher to the ship and around $8 in Kuna taxes. Be aware there are no cash machines in Carti so all money must be withdrawn in Panama City.
Some boats go to Sapzurro which means a trip all along the coast and more island time usually, without the long open sea crossing to Cartagena. From Sapzurro you will take as couple of launchers to Turbo and then a bus either to Cartagena or another destination, this costs approx $70, and about 20 hours.
A few boats leave from either Portobello or Puerto Lindo in Colon, which are reachable by bus for $5-10. From here it almost a days sailing to the San Blas islands which is why many Captains have decided to leave from Carti as to give people more time in the islands.
The trips range from $375-$500 depending on the quality and duration.
You can contact Stuart at Mamallena Hostel in Panama City and they will give you all the info. They really know a lot.
Hostel Mamallena
Panama City and Boquete, Panama
www.mamallena.com
Casa 7-62 Calle Primera, Perejil
Phone:(507)6676 6163 cell
You can definitely do this trip from Cartagena to Panama City, just reverse the order!!! In Cartagena you can contact
LUNA CASTLE HOSTEL
www.lunacastlehostel.com
LEARN SOME SPANISH!
Couchsurfing.org / Servas.org
If your goal is to make friends and save some money along the way you should definitely try Couchsurfing or Servas, we have been doing this since we started and met the most wonderful people. Be respectful and nice to your hosts. We believe that knowing locals is the best way to know a country and learn their culture, making friends as you go will make you grow as a person and as a smart traveler!! WE ARE LOVING IT!
Honduras & corrupt Cops
In general you will find that cops and military personal are there to help and keep you safe you but know that in some countries (Honduras/Mexico) they are also after your money, the best advice we can give you is to learn Spanish, and this is so they don’t take advantage of you. The second best advice is to know that 80% of the time they are just trying to get your $$ so they are making up causes to delay you so you will give them something. Well, you don’t have to, know that if you delay them they will probably loose customers so just tell them that you will not give them anything other that your time until you talk to a supervisor, tell them that you have time, not money and that you can come with them to the station if they want, tell them you are a lawyer and that you know that what they are asking for is illegal, tell them whatever, just don’t give them your money!!
OK, This will work 95% of the times, the other 5 can be divided in
1% give them a flag or a souvenir of your country
1% buy them a coke
1% just talk about how hard it probably is for them to work under such strenuous conditions
1% tell them you have time, not money to loose so just wait to see how it evolves from there
1% show them the money!
We had 5 cops stop us in Honduras in only 80 miles, we had to try them all... and ended up just giving the last one $10, we were next to the police station and there was no convincing them of all the rest..
We suggest you bring hazard triangles and fire extinguisher in your safety kit, this is what they mostly ask for, but they will for sure, find something to detain your license... another option... bring a few fake licenses... they wont know the difference.
and last but not least...
LEARN SOME SPANISH!
HAVE FUN!! ENJOY, you only live once!
